Highly Comedogenic
Linsee Oil
Olive Oil
Cocoa Butter
Oleic Acid
Coal Tar (main component of red pigments D&C)
Isopropyl Isostearate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Isopropyl Linoleate
Oleyl Alcohol
Octyl Palmitate
Isostearic Acid
Myreth 3 Myristate
Butyl Stearate
Lanolic Acid
Moderately Comedogenic
Decyl Oleate
Sorbitan Oleate
Myristyl Lactate
Coconut Oil
Grape Seed Oil
Sesame Oil
Hexylene Glycol
Tocopherol
Isostearyl Neopentanoate
Most D & C Red Pigments
Octyldodecanol
Peanut Oil
Lauric Acid
Mink Oil
Mildly Comedogenic
Corn Oil
Saflower Oil
Lauryl Alcohol
Lanolin Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Lanolin
Sunflower Oil
Avocado Oil
Mineral Oil
(Mildly comedogenic ingredients are usually not a problem wjen used in diluted amounts. Check to see it's ranking on the ingredient label.)
Noncomedogenic
Glycerin
Squalane
Sorbitol
Sodium PCA
Zinc Stearate
Octyldodecyl Stearate
SD Alcohol
Propylene Glycol
Allantoin
Panthenol
Iron Oxides
Dimethicone
Cyclomethicone
Polysorbates
Cetyl Palmitate
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate / Dicaprylate
Jojoba Oil
Isopropyl Alcohol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Octylmethoxycinnimate
Oxybenzone
Petrolatum
Butylene Glycol
Tridecyl Stearate
Tridecyl Trimellitate
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
Phenyl Trimethicone
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2.
High Clogging Probability
Cocoa Butter
Coconut Oil
Sodium Chloride (salt)
Wheat Germ Oil
Medium Clogging Probability
Corn Oil
Cottonseed Oil
Crisco
Glyceryl Stearate SE
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Mink Oil
Soybean Oil
Sulfonated Castor Oil
Low Clogging Probability
Almond Oil (Sweet Almond)
Anhydrous Lanolin
Apricot Kernal Oil
Avocado Oil
Beeswax
Bentonite Clay
Candelilla Wax
Castor Oil
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emulsifying Wax NF
Emu Oil
Evening Primrose Oil
Glycerin
Hydroxypropyl Cellulose
Jojoba
Kaolin Clay
Olive Oil
Peanut Oil
Polysorbate 20 and 80
Safflower Oil
Sesame Oil
Stearic Acid
Sunflower Oil
Tocopherol
Aloe Vera (cold pressed)
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3.
What is comedogenicity?
The term "comedogenicity" is often called "pore-clogging" relative to product ingredients. This may mean the ingredient blocks dead skin cells in pores or that the ingredient tends to form small plugs of oil. Generally, those most susceptible to comedogenicity are those with oily or acne-prone skin. While most dermatologists and skin care professionals recommend oil-free products for these skin types, many oil-free ingredients can still be considered comedogenic. Likewise, some oils are in fact non-comedogenic [like, (surprise!) USP-grade mineral oil; even Crisco™ is only somewhat comedogenic].
More importantly, when reviewing ingredient lists, formulations that contain comedogenic ingredients aren't always pore-clogging; even somewhat or very comedogenic ingredients can be present in non-comedogenic formulas when used at percentages low enough so that the end formula won't clog pores . Comedogenic ingredients may also be included in products without resulting in comedogenicity because the formula is 1) intended for areas not prone to comedogenicity (e.g., lips, eye lines, hands, body) or 2) intended for skin types not normally susceptible to comedogenicity (e.g., mature or dry skin types).
Below is a (very) partial list of commonly used ingredients, grouped by degree of comedogenicity. This list is by no means exhaustive, so when in doubt about a formula, consult your local library, cosmetic chemist or dermatologist for other possible offenders.
Very Comedogenic
Acetylated lanolin alcohol
Butyl stearate
Capric/caprylic triglyceride
Cocoa butter
Isopropyl's, except Isopropyl alcohol
Lanolic acid
Linseed oil
Myristyl myristate
Octyl palmitate & stearate
Oleic acid
Olive oil
Peach kernal oil
Sweet almond oil
Somewhat Comedogenic
Anhydrous lanolin
Avocado oil
Capric & caprylic acid
Castor oil
Coconut oil
Corn oil
D&C red pigments (most)
Grape seed oil
Glyceryl stearate
Hexylene glycol
Lanolin alcohol & oil
Lauryl alcohol, Laureth acid
Mineral oil, cosmetic grade
Mink oil
Myristic acid, Myristyl lactate
Octyldodecanol
Palmitic acid
Peanut oil
Safflower oil
Sesame oil
Sorbitan oleate
Sunflower oil
Tocopherol (vitamin E)
Not Comedogenic
Allantoin
Beeswax
Carmine
Cetyl palmitate
Cyclomethicone
Dimethicone
Ethanol
Glycerin
Iron oxides
Isopropyl alcohol
Jojoba oil
Kaolin (clay)
Mineral oil (USP)
Octyl methoxycinnamate
Octyldodecyl stearate
Oxybenzone
Panthenol
Petrolatum (USP)
Polysorbates
Propylene glycol
SD alcohol
Kaolin (clay)
Sodium hyaluronate
Sodium PCA
Sorbitol
Squalene
Titanium dioxide
Waxes—Candelilla, Carnauba, Emulsifying, Paraffin
Zinc oxide & stearate
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4.
Comedogenicity
Unlike occlusive oils like mineral and sunflower oil, which do not penetrate, comedogenicity refers to the tendency of a substance to get into the skin's pores and clog them. This is especially bothersome in face care products, where clogged pores may lead to acne and blackheads. The word comedo is the medical term for blackhead, so comedo+genic means "friendly to blackheads." Some cosmetic-ingredient glossaries equate "non-comedogenic" with "non-occlusive," but that is a misunderstanding; while beeswax, mineral oil and zinc oxide (among others) are known to be occlusive, they are non-comedogenic. This is because they lie on top of the skin and do not penetrate. Others, like sunflower oil, may be both occlusive and (somewhat) comedogenic.
"Note: Even somewhat or very comedogenic ingredients can be present in non-comedogenic formulas when used at percentages low enough that the end formula won't clog pores" (ibid.). The important point is to look at their relative position in the ingredients list. If a comedogenic ingredient is toward the top, then it is probably present in a quantity large enough to clog pores. Unfortunately it is impossible from the ingredients list to know whether for example ingredient #5 represents 20% of the formula or 2%. Thus we need to be able to trust the manufacturer when the label states "non-comedogenic."